Nepenthes cuttings.

[Richard Hole]

Hello

I am wondering the best way to cut Nepenthes cuttings based on my ideas below. An experienced grower suggested dipping the part of the cutting that goes underground in 75% methylated spirits and 25% water for 30 seconds in order to kill fungi and bacteria. He then suggested to soak the cutting in water before cutting the bottom half inch off as the cutting as it may have absorbed some of the methylated spirits. However cutting half inch off the cutting may mean a node would be wasted if the leaves are close together. This would mean less cuttings could be taken. Perhaps there are other any anti fungal solutions that could be used that would not harm the cutting through absorption so that less than half an inch would need to be cut off. Do you think wettable sulfur could work well or do you have any other suggestions? I want something that is low toxicity and is safe for my skin. Some people suggest rooting hormones. However, I have not used these for years and found cuttings still strike without them. For a root hormone that also kill fungi and bacteria I not sure how toxic they are if they are on your skin for a while. Could that be a problem? Also a fair volume would be needed to dip all the part of the cutting that grows underground and it would be easier if it is a liquid or wettable powder. I read that honey is a powerful germ or bacteria killer and is good for a rooting hormone for cuttings. However, I am not sure how well it would help for Nepenthes cuttings. Please let me know of any trials of this.

Previously I have cut along the thick dark brown lines as shown in the diagram. The upper cut that forms the bottom end of the upper cutting is just below the ridge on the stem formed by the petiole. I am not sure if it would be all right to make this cut higher perhaps where the base of the petiole joins or even above the join. This could be an advantage where the leaves are very close together as it may mean not having to waste a node. How close to the node could I cut?

I cut the petiole (at the base of the cutting) off where it joins the stem so the cut also removes the outer layer of tissue on the stem to expose the meristematic tissue. Just below, (near the bottom end of the cutting) I have been cutting the ridges off along with the outer layer of the stem underneath these ridges to expose the meristematic tissue. I could make these cuts after the cutting is washed and soaked in water after being dipped in the methylated spirits or anti fungal solution. If an antifungal solution can be found that is not harmful if absorbed by the cutting, washing afterwards may not be needed although the cutting may be best washed before the cuts are made in this case. Would it be better to dip the cuttings in the antifungal solution (if it is not harmful if absorbed) or rooting hormone after the final cuts are made and not washing it off? Could the same container of antifungal solution be used for the cuttings from a number of different plants or would it be necessary to make up a new batch for each plant to avoid any contamination?

I grow the cuttings in pure sphagnum moss in a greenhouse under white solarweave plastic that reduces the sunlight by 50%. Foggers mist the foliage so it does not dry out for long if the humidity drops below 80%.

I am wondering if people have had as much success with cuttings that are not buried far into the potting mix? If the nodes are close together several shorter cuttings are possible which would mean more cuttings. However, only about an inch may be in the potting mix if this is the case. What is the minimum depth that has been found to work well?

Also, would it be much of an advantage to strike cuttings on an overcast or wet day when the plants may be less heat stressed than they could be on a warm sunny day with 30 degree heat and 50% humidity?

I grow a number of different carnivorous plants and am interested in swapping them with growers. Most of my plants have a simple self watering wick system to enable easy care. It reduces the risk of the plant drying out. Please see http://www.advantagein.com/cp/ .

Your help would be appreciated,
Regards Richard

[allenphoon]

sorry, as i didnt read the whole passage and straight reply you once i saw the question

why you make the upper cut? since roots have the potential to form between these layers(space between lower cut and upper cut), and even if roots did not form at that layers, there still got some cells storing nutrient and cell function as photosynthesis unit that supply the most primitive energy to the plant(except the wooden stem).
Furthermore, if you do not make the upper area, but only creating the lower cutting, it will be nice, since plants will have more space for root growing or more area to be covered by propagation media such as water, sphagnum moss, peat, etc

just my opinion, no mean

[Richard Hole]

Hi

Are you suggesting that I make the cut that forms the bottom end of the cutting further away from the node so that there is a longer length of stem between the node and the bottom end of the cutting?

Regards Richard

[allenphoon]

you might do so if you feel that it is necessary, for me i just leave the cutting with 2-3cm with nodes. But i think nepenthes that are suitable to our terrain should be able to cope with that, =)

[Richard Hole]

Hello

Based on your and other people’s advice, I updated the diagram I did in the attachment. Also, what I described as the ridge before is actually called the wing. Does the diagram look correct?

I plan to make the cut along the dark brown line. Some growers suggested using Clonex rooting hormone gel. Do you think that would significantly help increase the strike rate and root growth rate and mean that the cutting would be ready for sale quicker?
Does anyone know if honey would work as well for Nepenthes?

One concern with Clonex is that the label does state "harmful . . . if absorbed through the skin" However, I am not sure if it could be a problem if some is on your skin which could happen when you are painting it on or pressing the cuttings down into the pot. Have you had any problems with this and do you wear gloves?


Your help is appreciated,
Regards Richard.

[Richard Hole]

Hello

I just found out that there is another rooting hormone which is cheaper and possibly more user friendly than Clonex and it has the same active ingredient. Rootex also contains Indole Butyric Acid at a concentration of 4 grams per liter and they suggest to mix a few milliliters of it with the same amount of water. Clonex contains 3 grams per liter of Indole Butyric Acid.
Do you think Rootex should be as good as Clonex for Nepenthes cuttings?

Rootex is in a powder form and a gel form but the “Rootex L” is a liquid form and may be more user friendly as you could just dip the cuttings in the solution without having to worry about spreading a gel.
See http://www.heinigerhg.com.au/MSDS/Rootex%20G.pdf

Also, do I only need to apply it to the areas of the cutting that are cut or do you suggest also applying it to other parts of the stem that go below the potting mix?

Also, what do you think of my cutting diagram in the previous post?

Your help is appreciated,
Regards Richard.