TS: VFT Dormancy (Read 447 times)

[bactrus]

cactustts
Pioneer Member / Global Moderator

member is offline





Joined: Dec 2006
Gender: Male
Posts: 584
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
VFT Dormancy
« Thread Started on 22 Dec, 2006, 9:50 »VFTs do go into dormancy once in a while. When the traps grow smaller, petioles go shorter and broader (we call it autumn leaf), speed of closing of traps slow down, no new leaves are produced, these are signs of plant preparing to go into dormancy. Normally, in our tropica climate, changes in the weather from hot days to rainny days (from hot to continuos cool for many days) may 'trigger' the plant to sleep if it hasn't gone to sleep for quite a long period of time. (Small plant won't be any problems without dormancy for the first two years.)

During this time, reduce the watering. Remove the tray underneath if you do have one. Don't water it unless the top peat/media is dry. When you water, just give it enough water to wet the peat/media, keep it just damp. Place the pot in bright place (not hot). If you grow it outdoor, move it to a bright place where it won't get direct sunlight and rain. Let it be there for at least a month, better two.

After a long sleeping, if it still show no signs of awake (the plant will still look like how it was when it started to go asleep), you may now arrange a "morning call" by just do the repotting to wake up the plant. Normally I'll change new potting mix, peat/perlite, ratio can be 1:1 or 2:1 or in between (you may substitute perlite with river sand, but make sure you wash it several times to flush away the minerals in it). Pure sphagnum moss is fine too. After repotting, water it thoroughly until the water drains out from the bottom, place the pot at the same place where it slept before, transfer it to full sunlight after two days. If you feel 'heart pain' having your precious plant under full sun, than you probably can just provide it with some shade. Mine didn't have any ill effect on direct sunlight. Repeat the same growing routine as before. Bear in mind VFT like alot of sunlight, the more the better, don't put it under shade, or it may not grow to it's peak.

Don't try the cold dormancy method, chances of loosing it is very high. Unless you have extra plant to take the challenge. In the web, you may find alot of articles saying you could just put your VFT in the fridge for dormancy, that is a big risk in our tropical climate. The VFT can't take the sudden change of temperature from as low as just a few degrees C to as hot as 20 something to 35 degrees when it wake up. Infact in the actual habitat, the temperature gets warmer slowly. You'll find the plant show no signs of growing and eventually rot.

## You guys are so lucky to have someone to share the experience, not all info from the web applicable to our climate. I have lost a lot of my pet plants including many different forms. How I wish to have someone to share the experience when I started cultivating VFTs, all my VFTs probably will survive for me till now, poor guinea pig VFTs. Hope this help and wish you guys luck. « Last Edit: 16 Mar, 2007, 12:04 by cactustts »Link to Post - Back to Top LoggedTSartificialive
Pioneer Member / Global Moderator

member is offline





Joined: Dec 2006
Gender: Male
Posts: 713
Location: Ayer Keroh, Malacca
Re: VFT Dormancy
« Reply #1 on 4 Feb, 2007, 8:45 »Hi TS, can we train VFTs to do the dormancy? I mean we trigger the dormancy purposely, give them a resting period and do the morning call.. This way, the dormancy period will be consistent for many years, which i think its a good thing for VFTs.. Link to Post - Back to Top Logged[Naj Grow List] --- [Naj Wanted List]cactustts
Pioneer Member / Global Moderator

member is offline





Joined: Dec 2006
Gender: Male
Posts: 584
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Re: VFT Dormancy
« Reply #2 on 1 Mar, 2007, 12:16 »Sorry Naj, I missed this...
Yes, we can do that by placing them in a shady spot and reduce watering. Link to Post - Back to Top LoggedTSDavid
Administrator

member is offline





Joined: Dec 2006
Gender: Male
Posts: 2,326
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Re: VFT Dormancy
« Reply #3 on 4 Apr, 2007, 18:12 »By Jeffrey
Re: Dormancy Period
« Reply #3 on Dec 21, 2006, 11:51pm »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hmmm... personally when the VFT starts to show signs of dormancy like put out small and undeveloped traps/leaves and older leaves/traps die off. Grow rate slow. Than you have to give it dormancy. (You may not give them any if they show no sign of dormant)

One way is cold dormancy, store in fridge. Take note, Must wash the root gently and remove the black stem gently. After a few months, check it again, it will start to grow newer shoots of larger traps, then you can start repot.

(PS: for me, i got them into too cold fridge apartment, so they froze like ice. die... And got fungus attack too wet and I didnt remove the black rot stem)

One more way is dry dormancy, recently tested by some members in GCS. Simply leave them under the shade, stop watering (but one a week; a bit moist; normally i spray water). few months later, it spring back to life!

(PS: take note of insects (small black insects which crawl VERY fast) attacking the rot leaves and stem. so dont overwater the soil)

One more last one, leave it aside. I heck care now.
I have potted all my VFTS together, some dormancy some dont. I just do my normal watering but twice a week; because i grow them under light.

(PS: dont follow, i am still trying out.)